The Food of France

Review: Au Revoir to All That: The Rise and Fall of French Cuisine by Michael Steinberger | The Observer

But on the nitty gritty of what is happening to the bistros, the reliable restaurants in small towns in the middle of nowhere upon which the country’s reputation was truly based, there is little. That’s unfortunate because, while the death throes of the €500 dinner are endlessly entertaining, it is the demise of the quality €15 lunch that is the real story.

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