The Food of France

Let Them Eat Choux

Popelini, the pastry shop Lauren Koumetz opened this month in Paris’s Marais neighborhood, is devoted exclusively to pate à choux, or cream puffs, the bite-size flavor shots that offer a sugar lover an alternative to France’s superstar macaron. On any given day, the choux are lined up in a half dozen flavors including dark chocolate, lemon praline, salted butter caramel, Madagascar vanilla and rose; some have an additional confit filling of passion fruit or raspberry. And then there’s the choux du jour, dreamed up by the pastry chef Alice Barday, which might be strawberry-litchi, Earl Grey tea, pear, or tiramisu, inspired by the Italian dessert with whipped cream, almonds and crunchy chocolate sprinkles.

2pm